Whenever fall comes around, I always think about warm, hearty foods and rich alpine cheeses like Gruyere, Comte and even Emmentaler. But then I remember a little–known treasure that I always seem to forget about: Appenzeller. Known for its unique herbal brine washing, it is available in a variety of maturity levels, though we sell only the Appenzeller Extra: the best of the best. The secrets of the unique spicy flavor of this great cheese can be tied back to the rich, pure alpine milk and the loving care given to each wheel, in addition to the closely guarded recipe of the herbal brine—it has been made now for more than 700 years, and still only a select few people know what’s in it. A total of 65 village dairies make Appenzeller from fresh milk every day, and they produce more than 9,000 tons of cheese annually, but this is by no means a large–scale production. A typical producer like the Lenggenwil Dairy, with only 2 employees, makes around 21,000 wheels of cheese per year. Wow, cheesemaking at its best! Though great on its own, Appenzeller is a natural for melting and is a great addition to the classic fondue recipe. Also try it in your twice–baked potatoes and gratins, or melted over baked pears or even in a Chicken Cordon Bleu. • Kaelynn Medbery (Specialty Cheese)